Zipolite: the paradise of freedoms threatened by gentrification

For decades, Playa del Amor, one of those grouped in the Oaxacan town of Zipolite, has been characterized as a paradisiacal cove whose main flag has been freedom. It's a nudist place. It's LGTBQ friendly. Practically, their connoisseurs have described, there is nothing that could not be done there. But as in everything, there is a limit. And as word got out of that prejudice-free oasis — in a country where that is almost utopian — more and more visitors began to arrive, both domestic and foreign. The gentrification that this entails has resulted in the initiation of restrictions in the place that presumed not to fear a single one.

According to an urban legend, in the sixties there was a total solar eclipse, so people gathered on this beach that was totally virgin to observe it. While this was happening, they decided to enjoy the waters under the influence of that hippie essence that was lived at the time, that is, completely naked.

“For decades, this former fishing village turned into a hippie meeting place has been transformed into an oasis for the queer community, attracted by its golden beaches, its countercultural atmosphere and a practice of nudism that embraces bodies of all shapes,” a New York Times article published about that place describes this Wednesday. “But as its popularity has grown, attracting an increasing number of gay and straight visitors, the city is beginning to transform: foreigners are hoarding land, hotels are multiplying, influential people are flocking to the beach, and many residents and visitors now fear that what once made Zipolite magical to be lost forever”, reaffirms the text.

And the fact is that the illusion of that paradise suffered a major blow of reality last February, when the inhabitants of the town agreed to curb freedoms on the nudist beach in order to “recover more harmonious ways of coexistence between residents and tourists”, and not lose the international recognition they have earned as a destination.

That's after locals started complaining about the appearance of waste in the sea, such as used condoms, inhalers known as poppers, beer cans or underwear. The allegations also pointed to excessive noise at night and sexual practices on Playa del Amor.

Then, the assembly of the inhabitants decreed to define an exclusive space for nudism, thereby prohibiting people from walking without clothes in public places outside the beach. In addition, they strictly prohibited sexual practices in any public place in the locality.

Until 2019, on the beaches of Zipolite, where various activities are common, from diving, surfing, diving and admiring the sunset on the horizon, lodging used to be economical, with an offer ranging from a small cabin to a simple, rustic room, ranging from 250 to 350 pesos (15 to 18 USD) per night. Now, a beachfront suite can cost up to $500 a night.

“The town, where tourism is booming, natural resources are scarce and so many foreigners are buying property, that the price of land has become largely unaffordable for locals,” the New York Times warned.

In this text they also collect the testimony of several regular visitors to Zipolite and its beaches who point to various aspects in which the gentrification of the place is affecting its essence. One of them is the non-existent stigma of body image. And they say that while a few years ago no one seemed to be fazed by the differences in the bodies of people who left out their inhibitions when they arrived at the place, now that diversity is behind us.

“As Zipolite's popularity has grown, its hippie vibe is changing. The bars are louder, the restaurants become more ostentatious. LGBTQ tourism is also changing: increasingly dominated by Americans, it becomes less diverse,” the text notes.

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