Sport Climbing Rises to the Occasion

(ATR) Sport climbing is thrust into the spotlight with five major international competitions overthe coming months as it ascends towardsits highly anticipatedOlympic debut in 2020.

The International Federation of Sport Climbing (IFSC) Youth World Championships are just underway in Moscow with 699 youth athletes from 43 countries competing in bouldering, speed and lead disciplines.

The eight-day Moscow competition will befollowed by the senior world championships in Innsbruck, Sept. 6-16. Sport climbing – one of five new sports that will be showcased at Tokyo 2020 – is also making its debut at the Asian Games in Jakarta, Aug. 22-28 and will be part of the Youth Olympic Games in Buenos Aires, Oct. 6-18.Rounding out the busy schedule is a World Cup finalevent in Munich,Aug. 17-18.

Sport Climbing federation president Marco MariaScolaris stresses the magnitude of the months ahead, while offering insight and perspective on what can be expected in Tokyo 2020.

"We are really busy, but really excited,"Scolaris tellsAround the Ringsfrom Moscow. "The good thing is that we are learning everyday – we get knowledge but also inspiration watching our climbers and youget the motivation toget better and better."

In Tokyo, sport climbing will share theAomi Urban Sports Venuewith 3x3 basketball and the federation is cooperating closely with FIBA.Scolaris points out that two entirely different sports sharing a common venue isa first forthe OlympicGames.

"I think it’s the perfect couple somehow,’ said the sport climbing chief. "I expected more difficulties, but we work very well together and understand each other.

"The big issue for us is that they are miles ahead, but we try to run as fast as FIBA and at the end of the day we will have a great event."

Sidaris informed that spectators for sport climbing will also be permitted onto the floor, in addition to the tribune, creating a concert-like atmosphere.

The Italian said IOC officials were blown away when they first witnessed sport climbing as part of the sports laboratory at the 2014 Nanjing YOG. He is excited for the sport to be introduced to the world during Tokyo 2020.

"First of all, they will discover what it is,"Sidaris said. "Every time we have new spectators watching our sport they are impressed."

He added that the sport has significant youth appeal.

"There are so many opportunities for the youngsters to practice and become active," he said. "It is really appealing and maybe it is something that is being ignored right now."

The format for Tokyo 2020 will be a triathlon of sorts combiningthe three disciplines of bouldering, lead andspeed. Medals will be awarded for both genders as the sport enters the Olympic program.

There has beencriticism from elite climbers and purists of the sport thatthe speed discipline doesn’t belong with bouldering and lead.American AlexHonnold, who is considered one of the world’s best outdoor free climbers, and Czech AdamOndra are among those who have voiceddispleasure and seembound to forego the Tokyo Games.

"The problemhere is that we were givenone medal (per gender) from the beginning so the choice was to leave one or two disciplines behind,"Scolaris said. "The fairest solution for us was to combine the three disciplines.

"Most of the climbers understand – I cannot say it was the right choice, it was the only choice,"Scolaris said.

"At the end of the day what counts is the appeal of the public and if someone sees our speed climbers climbing 15 meters in five seconds, then wehave good reason to consider it," he said.

Sidaris, 60, a recreational climber from Turin, founded the IFSC in 2007. He insinuated that sport climbingwillsatisfy the youth driven element the IOC is seeking andis bound to secure its place in the Olympic Movement.

"The key will be the way the sports world will accept the newsports, not just sport climbing.

"If we succeed at giving value to the Olympic Movement, which is the task of the IOC with the international federations, then there is a bright future for the sport in the Olympic Movement."

Written by Brian Pinelli

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